Cinque Terre: 30x30 Outift 13A

 

Swimsuit, Cover-Up: J Crew final sale ($9.99 and $14 steals!) / Top: Consigned CK / Belt: Ruche / Shoes: Privo

Today we're backtracking to finish the posts on our European trip and my Europe 30x30 from last summer. So let's pretend it's July 2011, and get this show on the road, shall we?

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I switched my Outfit 13 dress for a swimsuit cover-up and threw my Keens, a towel, and sunscreen in my backpack for our trek through Cinque Terre, five old Italian villages set on cliffs along the Mediterranean shore, just north of Tuscany.  You can hike a rugged trail along the coast between them, but there's also a train that goes through the mountains just inland.  We headed first to Levanto where we took the train to Riomaggiore, the southernmost village, so we could hike our way back up north through the five villages.

Riomaggiore sprawls through a ravine along the coast, with colorfully classic Italian houses tumbling up the cliffs on either side. If we go again, we'd hike up the hill to get a view of the village from above. This is what it looks like, but the station left us just north of it (left in the linked photo) on the other side of the hill, with the village out of view.  We saw these terraced vineyards, which are plentiful in this region, and didn't realize how pretty the city on the other side was.

Check out that sparkling clear-blue H20. Sheer perfection.

From Riomaggiore, we took the Via dell'Amore trail for a 20 minute hike to Manarola, the next town north. The Via dell'Amore, or Walkway of Love, was the first path to connect any of these 5 villages, built in 1920. Lovers from the two towns met here, carved their names on the rocks and cacti along the route, and began the tradition of locking a padlock around a rail to signify their love. Very charming, indeed:

After a look about the town, we detoured to a rocky area north of Manarola, where you get spectacular views of the classic, colorful city against the cliffs for which Cinque Terre is so popular.

This area also features the best swimming, and of course that is what most excited the Husband. Deep swimming holes beneath breathtaking yet manageable cliffs, and he's higher than a kite on adrenaline and excitement.

I might've been a bit scared at first. But people above were watching.

This one was small enough that I could dive. From here, we have no photos because we had to leave the camera on the rocks to swim to the better cliffs. We swam around some rocky points till we found an ideal cliff, about 40 something feet, with easy climbing access. We each went twice, and people on the trail above cheered and clapped for us, which helped me not chicken out. And also kinda feel like a rock-star. I'm pretty sure that's my highest jump yet.

The water was perfection. Amazing temperature and clear as the sky, though it was saltier than the Pacific or Atlantic. We took goggles to look at the schools of fish, urchins, and anemones. 

Views of Manarola. Photo on the right is taken from Corniglia.

The trail to Corniglia, the next town, was blocked due to landslides, so we went back to Manarola and hopped the train, which dropped us off at the bottom of the the Lardarina-- 382 brick steps up the cliff leading to Corniglia. And I'm not at all ashamed to say that I did it in my swimsuit. It was hot.

Corniglia is the best town for getting away from all the tourists, probably because of all those stairs. Also, it's the only one of the villages that sits atop a large really high cliff and doesn't have direct sea access.  There were lots of pretty vineyards and flowers, though.

Next, we took the 90-minute trail to Vernazza, which offered spectacular views of both Corniglia and Manarola in the distance. 

Vernazza is the most exciting of the villages thanks to it's natural harbor, shops, pedestrian-only streets, and castle ruins. It juts out on a tiny peninsula with vineyards along the hillside above.

Here we grabbed some of the region's famous foccaccia sandwiches {foccaccia originiated here, and pesto also originated in this region}, a spinach torte, and of course, some fresh gelato. This time I got peach along with my usual chocolate and strawberry. 

This shop's resident cat kept a close eye on us. You never know when a human is about to swipe a scarf. Or drop some food.

The last hike, to Monterosso, is supposed to be the longest and most difficult, but also feature the best views. But it was getting late after exploring Vernazzo, so we hopped the train again instead. 

In Monterosso, the Husband swam again while I waded in the clearest water in the world.

 Then we enjoyed the sunset light from the pebbly beach.

That's Vernazza all lit up by the sunset in the valley to the right.

For dinner, we had to try the sardines, for which this place is renowned, but they were pretty dang salty. We also ordered my favorite apricot juice, another foccaccia sandwich, and the best bruschetta in the world. Best ever, I tell you. Five perfectly toasted pieces of a grainy bread, brushed with the perfect blend of fresh olive oil and garlic, and each piece topped with something different: homemade pesto, tomatoes with amazing seasonings, tomatoes and pesto together, garlic, and sardines. I was sure I'd gone straight to heaven.

Apricot juice doesn't last long around me. Why oh why can't this become a staple in the States?!

It was the perfect end to a perfect day. At the end, we caught the train back to Levanto and made our way back to our cozy room at the Cuccaro Club for the night. 

Neon Summer

Top: Ross / Skirt: ModCloth / Necklace: BlueFly / Belt: J Crew final sale / Shoes: J Crew via DownEast

I spent quite a bit of time today with my sister and cousin surrounded by the 80s comeback neon clothing that have taken over shopping malls across America. Glittery, glowing-green bustiers, anyone? I also spent the past week wearing a pair of neon-tipped shoes I got for $1 at Old Navy, along with a citrine tank I scored on clearance at Ross, and a lemon-striped scarf I found at Target. I even photographed the neon pink and orange dress I recently thrifted, but didn't post it before leaving such evidence behind, on my desktop at home.

Yet despite all this neon glow I've recently added to my life, I'm traveling at the moment and found myself with nothing to show for it when Everybody, Everywear announced Neon Day at the last minute. I decided, nonetheless, to participate by grittifying a photo from this old post from several months ago when neon was just making its comeback. That's right, I was wearing neon in the winter. Sometimes I even wore open-toed shoes with tights. It's a lawless world, my little bubble.

I thought the grit effect from PicMonkey quite suited the 80s flashbacks I've been experiencing all day, and it also provided a nice remedy to the wicked bout of boredom I'm currently fighting at 2a.m., which will quickly be replaced with jetlag come morning. It seems no matter how tired I make myself on my first day, I can never adjust back to Eastern time. Kind of like how I can never adjust to the lack of being sandwiched between the Husband and the Hound in this lonesome bed. I wish one of my pillows would steal my covers or snort in my ear.

In other news, I've got a whole week of visiting family and friends ahead of me. Then, the Hound-sitter will take over at the S domicile, the Husband will join me, and we'll be, ahem, you could say, getting our Francy-pants on. 

That's right. I said that.

So this is adieu for the next little bit. I'll not be attempting much blogging this time. Instead, I intend to fully enjoy my holiday, and then to return with an artillery of fun travel posts AND to finally finish my European 30x30 that I did last year. Also, expect a moustachioed-cupcake filled post from the last days of school. I never got around to posting that in the wild mess of trying to prepare to leave less than 12 hours after finishing up the school year.

Have a lovely summer, all!

A bientot! { I can't figure out how to make the accents on my netbook, and it's killing me!}

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*A bientot = See you soon!

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Vivez la langue!

Paris 2009. Orange hair and red skin c/o living on the beach in Les Sables d'Olonne.

I came 'cross this video today at Dear Edna and couldn't resist sharing. This week my lovely Canadian principal, who shares my French passion, gave me a sparkly new lanyard { it sparkles-- literally } and told me they'd try to let me teach French next year to entice me to stay. { It's currently not in our budget. } Also, this semester she arranged the schedule so that I now teach 8 classes, rather than 7, but none of them are larger than 37 students! It's much better. Here's to fabulous supervisors and hoping for more time to blog and less stress this semester { and French in the future! }

Hourra!

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Vivez la langue = Live the language. Study abroad, people! / Hourra = Hooray!

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Cuccaro Club: 30x30 Outfit 13

  Dress: Victoria's Secret; Button-up: Consigned at Periwinkle (Calvin Klein) / Belt: Ruche / Shoes: Privo / Earrings: Thrifted / Necklace: Piperlime (Hive & Honey)

We left Lake Como to sunny rays beaming through dark clouds. I split two apples between a few  horses and a skittish foal along the road while the Husband stopped for the shot below...

...then we headed to Italy's Cinque Terre, five charming, cliff-hugging villages along the Med coast just north of Tuscany.

Driving in Cinque Terre is near impossible, so we planned to take the train from the nearby Levanto. We found a great deal on a room at the Cuccaro Club in Suvaro, about 20 miles from Levanto, so we headed there to drop off our luggage and settle in. The drive from Levanto ended up taking 40 minutes, going straight up the mountains in the middle of nowhere. We were pretty wary by the time we got there, but boy were we rewarded. This place was straight out of a 1940s-50s Hollywood film. A perfect blend of African safari and British elegance, complete with a parrot in the lobby, bright colors, a meandering black bear of a sweet dog, and plenty of vintage and safari décor.

Antiques decorate the many halls and verandas and several lovely dining areas spread throughout various levels.

One dining hall in particular, was even decorated with flowered trellises and carousel horses. Isn't it darling?

This dining hall runs along the glass wall of a heated indoor pool complete with water polo nets and old loudspeakers. A jacuzzi room is connected in the back, and to the right is the entrance to the outdoor terrace and pool:



This resort is a virtual maze of sundry treasures. We discovered exercise rooms, hallways with old couches and sewing tables, and partitioned rooms filled with old gaming machines, books, and artwork.

We scored a lovely little room with a balcony {photo up top} where we quickly changed to our swim/hiking gear before heading to Cinque Terre. Cinque Terre merits it's own post, coming next. But after a long day of hiking and exploring the Italian Riviera, it sure was nice to return to such a darling little room...

...and all those amenities. First, we hit up the jacuzzi, then the heated pool, then the outdoor pool, and finally the jacuzzi again to warm up. We had them all to ourselves. That's the advantage of staying in the middle of nowhere on a weekday. And I'd say they were quite romantically lit just perfectly for us...

On our way back to our room, we passed a few Italians were playing Wii on a large screen in a room with pinball machines, pool tables, and a Foosball table. In the lobby, locals were chatting in the lobby, watching the equivalent of National Geographic as the parrot molted on his perch. Fancy guests dined as the scent of lemon tarts wafted down the halls. Heavenly, I tell you. Just heavenly.

The next morning we were delighted with a divine breakfast spread of homemade tarts and cakes and breads and jams and local cheeses with delicious juices like apricot and strawberry.

Even more spectacular, however, was that it was included in the room price. Typically, breakfast is extra in Europe.

Somehow we got all this for 57 euro. Thank you, Booking.com. We love you. :)

P.S. To top it all off, the staff was the friendliest we've had since the Normandy bed and breakfast. Very eager to please and friendly. Seriously people, if you ever go to this area, stay here.

Villas On the Lake: Outfit 12

Button-up, Pants, Belt: J Crew final sale / Shoes: Privo / Necklace, Earrings: AE /Purse: Nordstrom (bryna nicole)

This was our last full day at Lake Como, and it was supposed to be blustery and rainy . So I only wore the outfit above for dinner, and for the rest of the day I wore the lone hiking outfit I packed with my Keens.

We first went to the Orrido di Bellano, a gorge carved into the mountain where glacier water runs out of the Alps in spectacular falls then flows into the lake. While hiking up the ravine we crossed some interesting décor...

Apparently the gorge is as old. Prehistoric old. I suppose it did look a bit like Jurassic Park. The Husband was quite perturbed at those dinosaurs. He said they ruined perfectly good photos. We then continued deeper into the ravine on wooden platforms built into the rock that allow you to explore the gorge.

While driving to the gorge, the Husband noted a place from which he could dive into the lake {The man's obsessed. Obsessed.} There's an old road with tunnels along the shore that's used for hiking and biking. So we parked along the roadside and hiked down so he could dive in a few times, after which he was a happy little camper. Meanwhile, I gawked at the glimpses I caught of a stone house built into the hillside.

We next got lunch then headed to the Villa del Balbianello in Lenno. It was built in the late 1700s for a Franciscan Cardinal and is one of the most luxurious villas on the lake, with extensive terraced gardens. It's located at the tip of a peninsula and is also famous for having appeared in Star Wars Episode II, Ocean's Twelve, and Casino Royale. Today you can rent it for a wedding. If thousands and thousands of dollars is pocket change for you, of course. 

After hiking up the poorly marked trail and massive hill to the gate, however, we found it was closed for the day. Boo. So we appeased our appetites for luxury by watching this and this video instead, then went to the Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo. And, to spite me for wearing my hiking clothes all day long, the sun decided to come out just as we were graced with picture perfect backgrounds like this stairway to the Villa Carlotta, which, I just realized, I never photographed in entirety. It's massive....

The gardens were lovely and expansive. There were species from all over the world, from cacti to palms and lemon groves and everything in between, but the hydrangeas were my favorite. That's Bellagio across the lake from the hydrangea garden. We went there a few days earlier, remember?

The Villa really is spectacular, and the museum inside is just as interesting. It was built in the mid 1700s for a Milanese marquis then eventually purchased by the Princess Marianna of Prussia as a wedding present to her daughter, Carlotta, after whom the villa is named. The upstairs rooms are richly decorated and furnished, and downstairs is a gallery featuring several marble sculptures, including the famous Cupid and Psyche copy by Canova's pupil. Photographs indoors were prohibited, unfortunately.

After leaving the Villa, I explored Tremezzo a bit while the Husband searched for an ATM. There was a super fancy hotel facing the lake, as well as beautiful views of the Alps...

Once back in Domaso, I showered and changed for one last dinner at our favorite restaurant. This time we got a pizza with white cheese and cream and one with buffalo mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil. We went for a final stroll by the lake and got a last gelato {raspberry and chocolate..YUM!} before heading back to the apartment to play Carcassonne and Ticket to Ride for one last fun-filled night with our friends.

Lake Como Biking & Cliff Jumping: 30x30 Outfit 11

Top: J Crew final sale / Jean Shorts: Gabes (J Brand ) / Shoes: Privo / Earrings: Urban Outfitters / Sunnies: TJ Maxx (Oscar de la Renta)

On this afternoon, the Husband and I rented bicycles to explore some of the lake and it's quaint villages.

We came across beautiful scenery and Scott went for a swim while I watched swans and duckies play...

...and we laughed from a bridge as a mama duck fed her floating baby fuzzballs. They were so cute, patiently waiting as she dove under water until she surfaced. Then they'd zoom towards her and she'd feed them in turn. Très adorable.

After returning the bikes, we went back to the apartment and made dinner with the Russells. We'd gone to the market for pasta, vegetables, sauce, bread, and ingredients for caprese salad. The mozzarella and tomatoes here are out of this world, especially tossed with fresh basil, arugula, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar.

That night we played Rook, a favorite old game of my family, though I'm nonetheless an expert. The more interesting part of our day, however, took place this morning. Scott and Rand took off super early this morning in search of this waterfall along the Domaso river. They had no idea how far it was from the town. They just knew to follow it into the mountains and hope they came cross it soon. They arrived back late morning with a few videos of their own and these photos...

So of course, I wanted to go! After lunch, Scott took me to find the falls again. You'll pass classic Italian homes and frescoes on the way {I've never seen so many Virgin Mary tributes as I saw in Italy. They're everywhere. Along roads in the middle of nowhere. On abandoned buildings. Apartment walls. Restrooms. Etc.}...

Then once you get to this bridge, you climb down to the river. Part of the time you can hike along the side, climbing the rocks and walls from the old series of dams, but you have to wade some, too.

And then you come to the falls. I decided to jump from the lower one, because the pool was bigger. Scott swam around first to make sure it was deep enough.

I had to get up my nerve again. Waterfalls always get the best of me. The rushing water when I surface makes me a bit claustrophobic, especially when the fall is this wide. Fortunately, there were hikers passing and their presence encouraged me. Nothing like losing face in front of a bunch of Italians I'll never see again.

After we'd each had several goes...

 
...the Husband tried to let the current just wash him over, but it wasn't fast enough. I only dared dangle my legs.

When we'd finally had our fill of jumping, we made our way back to town. Scott found a new little friend along the way and I discovered several of these signs at the entrance, which the Husband had conveniently not pointed out to me on the way in and was thankful I didn't see them. He's wise, that one. I'm glad I didn't see them too.

P.S. Ha! I thought I'd get up two posts a day, and I'm getting two a week instead. Sorry I'm so slow. I promise to get the next one up soon, exploring a gorge in Bellano and the fancy Villa Carlotta on the lake.